Islam failed to snuff out Samarkand's fire-worship
at the first attempt. The armies of the Prophet crossed the Amu Darya in
654 but Samarkand, like Bukhara, defied them for half a century. Soviet
historians stopped just short of claiming the city was already a secular
people's republic: 'the population refused to accept foreign oppression
and the city became a center of the liberation struggle against the caliphate,'
says Y. N. Aleskerov.
But the liberation struggle foundered on semantics. In
712 Qutaiba ibn-Muslim, governor of the province of Khorassan which was
then part of the Islamic Umayyad empire, arrived with his soldiers at the
gates of Samarkand. Its defenders tried to snub him. 'We have found it
written,' they shouted from the battlements, 'that our city can only be
captured by a man named Camel-Saddle.' Unfortunately, in Arabic 'Qutaiba'
means precisely that, camel saddle, so in rode Qutaiba (on a horse).
Samarkand's first mosque was built in the western corner
of what is now the Afrasiab site. The city was absorbed into Khorassan
(based on Merv) and, in the late 9th century, into the Samanid empire based
on Bukhara. Islam, and its pervasive influence on art and architecture,
was here to stay. Meanwhile, for all her neighbour's political pretensions,
Samarkand remained the largest, richest city in Transomana. When Abulkasim
ibn-Khakal visited Samarkand in the mid-10th century he climbed the citadel
and saw 'one of the most beautiful views that man has ever gazed upon:
the fresh greenness of the trees, the glittering castles... All of this
is reflected in the canals running with water and the artificial ponds...
Samarkand is a city with large market places, blocks of dwellings, bath-houses,
caravanserai... The running water flows through canals that are partially
made out of lead... With few exceptions there is not a single street or
house where there is no running water, and very few houses do not have
gardens.'
Even a New era of nomadic invasions, starting with that
of the Karakhanid Turks in the late 10th century, failed at first to destroy
this irrigated idyll or the commerce which financed it. Over the next 200
years control of Samarkand alternated between Muslim Turks-the Seljuks,
and later the Khorezmshahs from the Amu Darya delta-and another tribe of
pagan nomads, the Kara-Khitai. Then came a terror of a different order.
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